Monday, 7 July 2014

Katherine to Lake Argyle

Left Katherine this morning for the long haul to Lake Argyle, hoping to find some good free camping on the way.

Before we left Katherine it was our turn to go to Beaurepaires for a tyre problem. Once that was fixed we were on our way.

After talking to other travellers we had decided to stop at The Gregory National Park, so we called into the Victoria River Roadhouse for some maps of the park. We drove down to the Victoria River boat ramp, a very wide beautiful river full of crocs, but there was nowhere to camp.


Victoria River

So on to Joe Creek picnic area to have a look. Decided to stay at this lovely secluded spot surrounded by wonderful escarpments.

Joe Creek
Situated off Victoria Highway (Highway 1), 10km west of Victoria River Roadhouse, accessed via a 2km unsealed, red dirt road.  Nestled in a valley below Livistona palm crowded scree slopes, just being here was awe inspiring.

Our camp site

Jeff, Laurie and I decided to do the Nawulbinbin Escarpment walk, a 1.7km loop with a level 4 difficulty.

The start of the walk

Nawulbinbin is on the land of the Nungali-Ngaliwurru people, they tell the stories that pass through this area and how they live on the land today -
    "Two Wuyuwuj, Black Whip Snakes, chased each other around Nawulbinbin, courting each other.

Evidence of their passing is in the gumbu they left behind, the water seeping out of the ground where they went to the toilet. You are warned not to drink the water on the ground along this walk.

          "From the walk you will have views across Nawulbinbin to where Buluga, the bandicoot, tried to make a track up over the top of the hills. Buluga didn't come over to this side of the valley.

Starting up the steep slope

     "The Emu is another creation being that came this way, but Wuyuwuj and Buluga chased him away because he didn't belong here."

The walk/hike led up a steep rocky slope (no path) to the base of the escarpment wall. Along this
track we crossed the path of the Wuyuwuj beneath towering Livistona palms, and our eyes feasted on the rock gardens adorning the sandstone walls.

It was challenging
We followed the wall(we were at least 300 feet above the ground level) through the forrests of tall
Livistona palm trees, pandanus and other unnamed trees, clambering over rocks and loose gravel,under the unbelievable overhanging cliffs of multi coloured layers of sandstone  rock towering above us at least another 300 feet or more above our heads.
Amazing rock overhangs

The rock layer at our level must have been millions of years old. An absolutely unforgettable experience.



Fabulous palm forest

We found Aboriginal rock art along the trail, it was right there in front of us, unprotected, within
reach of anyone who tackled this walk.

Rock Art



We took some amazing photos, as we progressed from one stunning view to the next.


Fantastic views

This VERY challenging walk took us just over 2 hours, and it was worth every hard earned step. Jude was waiting back at our camp with cool drinks. We thoroughly enjoyed this secluded camp for
the night with a nice big campfire.

Our secluded camp

After a fantastic night under the most stars we have ever seen, we enjoyed a bush breakfast while watching the sun rising on the escarpment, before continuing down the highway to find our next
camp for the night.
Sunrise on the escarpment
After a fuel and coffee stop at Timber Creek we found another dirt road to explore, this one leading
us to a large boab tree named "Gregory's Tree'



Gregory's Tree - Ngallbinggag
  "Welcome to this boab tree place, Ngallbinggag, which is associated with the sacred Goanna, Malajagu" - Ngarinyman people.

Gregory 's Tree has special significance to the Ngarinyman people and is a registered sacred site. It
was a meeting place and a ceremonial place for many Aboriginal groups.

This heritage place is a living monument to our shared history as it was the principal campsite of The
North Australian Expedition led by Augustus Gregory in 1855-1856.

Gregory was directed to explore the lands to the north of Australia and also to gain knowledge of the interior of the continent, rivers and their courses as well as learning the Aboriginal customs and habits.
Jeff at Gregory's Tree

Situated off the Victoria Highway, accessed via a 3km unsealed road. It was then a short easy walk to the boardwalk surrounding the magnificent boab tree, where Baines the expedition artist, marked the arrival and departure dates of Gregory's North Australia Expedition from the base camp here.  From
the boardwalk we enjoyed views over the Victoria while reading accounts of the early explorers.

We then pushed on to our next free camp site at Saddle Creek.

Saddle Creek
We were not so lucky as we were the night before, as here we had to share the campsite with many many others.  In fact we just arrived in time to secure 2 spots together. We are continually amazed as
to how many people arrive at these free camps. But it was a great campsite with the wonderful Kimberley landscape as our backyard.  It was too crowded at this camp, so no campfire tonight.

Our busy campsite

A crisp and early start for our short drive on to Lake Argyle.

We passed through the Quarantine checkpoint at the WA border, and we had eaten our fruit before we got there, but didn't know they would confiscate our salad. She was a hard woman who checked our van, she checked in all the cupboards, the fridge and even under the bed!!! Who keeps fruit or vegies under their bed?
Me at the WA Border - it was freezing and windy - I was trying to look like it was hot



We arrived early at the Lake Argyle Resort and caravan park, as we had been warned that they fill up early. So we were smart and we beat the rush and secured two very nice sites. We intended to
only stay one night, but it was so lovely here we stayed an extra night, we are now about 9 days behind schedule, but who really cares anyway we are having a ball.

Amazing Lake Argyle

The caravan park was really great, again we had great sites and couldn't wait to settle in and look around. We just had to check out their famous infinity pool surrounded by the stunning craggy masses of the Carr Boyd Ranges, with the most spectacular views over Lake Argyle, and it didn't disappoint, it looked fabulous. But by the time we got around to it, it was late in the afternoon and a
bit cold to swim, so we put that activity off until tomorrow.

After a drive around the lake area, across the dam wall and down the other side to discover a lovely shady picnic area by the river, we then drove out to the Durack Homestead and museum.


The Dam Wall - Damming the Ord River

There were views of the lake from almost everywhere in the park

So the next afternoon we just had to have a swim in the famous pool. My God what a shock, it was the coldest pool we had ever swam in. We did manage to stay in long enough to have "the photo" but we were out again  in about 60 seconds. We wondered why no-one else was swimming!! I must say we have swam in lots of pools, gorges, lakes etc but this pool takes the cake. What a shame, it was such a beautiful pool and we couldn't really enjoy it.
Jeff and I in the pool

Jude and Laurie just before Jude nearly froze to death

We did some lovely walks around this area,

Views over St Georges Terrace and the lake

Views on one of our walks

View back to the caravan park from one of our walks - you can just see it on the ridge













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